Gesture painting and structural stripes // NUBU autumn/winter 2016
The AW16 collection of NUBU was inspired by contemporary fine artist István Nádler’s work. Nádler is the pioneer of the neo-avantgarde movement. His metaphoric expressiveness and motives helped him to build gesture painting into his structural geometric abstacts in a unique way. The color-on-color technique of his paintings from the early and mid-2000s inspired the designers in using structurally striped fabrics.
The artist’s works appear in terms of color as well: black, blue, nude, and off-white are the determining colors of the collection, along with a peculiar, aubergine-blue spray paint patterned fabric. Stripes dominate textiles as well: the designers used embossed knits, transparent textiles with lines, striped organza fabrics. The fringed textiles and the sequined fabrics are the transcription of gesture painting too. The latter add an 80s mood to the collection, counterbalanced by sporty cuts. The clean silhouettes that characterize NUBU appear on feminine, a-line pieces.
Accessories in NUBU collections always reflect on the clothes: with these, the stripe rythm was achieved by embossing the leather. To pair with fringed fabrics, the designers made bags from a textile stiffened with aluminium foil that can be creased and keeps the preset form.